If you drop the measured amount all at once into water…especially, cold water, our products can sometimes clump up. It’s best to add the measured amount to a small empty jar, fill it 3/4 with warm-to-hot water, cover and shake vigorously. Once all the insoluble material is thoroughly mixed, the warm/hot liquid can be mixed with cold water (never apply warm/hot liquid to plants). Here is a 1 minute video on how to quickly and easily mix our powders. (Insoluble ingredients will eventually settle out but can easily be re-suspended with minimal agitation. The soluble ingredients will remain dissolved without agitation.)

Bud Bread can also be mixed directly into your soil prior to planting. Our recommended mixing rate is 1 teaspoon per gallon of soil.

For topdressing, sprinkle onto the media’s or soil’s surface the same amount (See our Application Chart) as you’d use for watering and then water it in.

Yes. See our Application Chart for precise timing and dosage.

Organic certification of crops is accredited through the National Organic Program (NOP) of the USDA. Unfortunately, the USDA does not consider cannabis a legitimate agricultural crop and therefore, accredited certification agencies (ACA) can not certify cannabis crops as organic nor can material review organizations, such as the Organic Material Review Institute (OMRI), list input materials for cannabis as compliant for organic production. Clean Green Certified™ fills the void by certifying cannabis crops as compliant with NOP organic standards, and by reviewing input materials that would be otherwise be allowed on certified organic farms.

You can use Bud Bread by itself but our other products compliment its performance. During the flowering stage, plants need a lot of potash so weekly applications of Coming of Age are really important. Angel’s Touch is not essential but increases the plants resilience to stress and helps them become less susceptible to problems such as pathogens or phytophagous insects. Transcend-Plantal Meditation is essential when you’re transplanting. If you start your plant in the same container (or section of earth) from which it’s harvested (i.e., it is never transplanted), you don’t need it.

Yes. As with anything, if a little is good, more is not necessarily better. If organic fertilizers and amendments are over applied, it’s often more injurious to the purse than the plants but it’s important to keep in mind that there’s nothing inherently healthy about over consumption. As with people, plants can face all kinds of health problems associated with over eating.

Yes. We recommend a conservative decrease (~ 20%) in our prescribed Bud Bread mixing rate, but still changing the mixing rate based on the stage of growth regardless of the way in which flowering is triggered, i.e., using the strongest dose at peak vegetative stage and the lightest at seedling and pre-harvest stages. However, don’t change recommendations of the other CWO products.

If you know the weeks-to-maturation period of the variety you’re growing, flowering typically starts at about the half-way mark. You can ramp up the dosage of Bud Bread to that point and start ramping it down as the plants enter the flowering stage. In other words, if the variety has a 10-week maturation period, ramp up dosage for the first 5-weeks and ramp down the next five. Use our Application Chart but adjust the dose to 20% less per treatment.

We’ve looked at hundreds of leaf tissue analysis reports from many different varieties and it’s clear that cannabis uses the same ratio of nutes throughout all growth stages…but they don’t use the same dose. Like people, infants and old farts don’t consume a lot but teenagers ravage the fridge daily. Our Application Chart shows how the dose of Bud Bread changes through the plant’s life cycle. Coming of Age is stage specific (flower stage only). Angel’s Touch is to plants what immune boosters are to humans, and can be used from seed (or clone) to harvest. Transcend-Plantal Meditation is only used for transplanting or cloning.

Yes. CWO products contain a background level of trace elements consistent with cannabis and hemp needs. However, the levels are not sufficient to correct deficiencies that might be indicated on a soil or potting media analysis report. We recommend correcting the deficiencies with appropriate amendments before planting.

The amount of chlorine in municipal water is underwhelming to populations of soil organisms. Most chlorine is driven off by the aerator in the faucet and, what’s left, is analogous to a fart in a hurricane. Biological proliferation wouldn’t even blink at it…especially if you’re providing resources (like we are) for the health and welfare of your soil biology. If you can use well or pond water, great. If you can’t, don’t worry about it. Research has proven that tap water is far better than no water.

No. Nature’s microscopic children will eventually turn the mixture into a stinky, anaerobic liquid that may be detrimental to your plants. Mix only what you will use per application. However, if you’ve mixed too much, the extra liquid can be frozen to be used at a later time.

Flushing is a way to protect the plant from fungal pathogens at a time when it is more susceptible to infection. It reduces the amount of soluble nutrients in the plant’s vascular system which can attract and feed pathogens. Whether the nutrients come from organic or chemical fertilizer doesn’t change how the plants absorb them. Chemicals go directly into the plant whereas organic nutrients need to be mineralized by soil biology. This helps both the soil and the plant through a symbiotic process but the mineralized organic nutrients can be just as attractive to pathogens as their chemical cousins. However, many defense mechanisms are created and/or strengthened by the biological relationship the plant has with a healthy soil. Flushing is another tool in the box. BTW, outdoor plants grown in the ground don’t need to be flushed but should not be fed during the last week or two before harvest.

Depends. If you’re growing in a rich, loamy soil or compost-based potting mix then, more than likely, the addition of microbes won’t accomplish much. If your soil is low in organic matter or you’re using a sterile potting mix, microbes will likely benefit your plants. CWO products will feed soil microbes if the critters are there.

Soil tests are good tools to determine deficiencies and imbalances. Those should be addressed before using CWO products. Our products are designed to work in a balanced soil or growing medium and will not correct deficiencies. See our Calculation Forms to determine the best way to amend your soil/media.

Yes and no. All things being equal (sunlight, water, temperatures, etc.) indoor rates should be the same as outdoor. That said, a container environment is much different than a field envrionment. Root occupation (as a percent of space) inside a container is much higher than in the field and absorbtion of nutes is proportionally higher, so lower, more frequent doses are recommended. If plants are stunted or leggy from insufficient light, moisture, or extreme temperatures, application rates should be reduced. Our products cannot compensate for terrible growing conditions.

Our products fertilize plants and stimulate soil biological activity. Unless you’re correcting soil or media imbalances, no other fertility products are necessary. And, although they do not control insects or fungal pathogens, they do stimulate plant health, which strengthens the plants’ own natural resistances to many pests.

Water insoluble N is typical of most natural organic sources but insoluble doesn’t mean unavailable. Essentially, we’re dealing with high protein meals that, because of their low carbon to nitrogen ratio (<10:1), break down quickly into mineral forms of N (i.e., what plants use). The process is biological which, in addition to feeding your plants (with naturally time-released N), also stimulates beneficial biological activity. So yes, you can count the total nitrogen in your calculations.

No. The need for high levels of phosphorus – at any stage of cannabis growth – is a myth that has been circulated for decades! Clinical data from hundreds of tissues tests at different stages of growth show that plants take up relatively little phosphorus compared with nitrogen and especially, potassium. Pot uses more potassium than any other nute.

Some growing media are naturally deficient in these elements. Coming of Age contains nearly twice the concentration of Ca and Mg as Bud Bread and can be used as a supplement regardless of the growing stage. You can also increase the dose of Bud Bread up to 100% (double the dose) which will double the amounts of Ca and Mg. Make sure that the problem is indeed a Ca or Mg deficiency. The symptoms of each are very different. Use Google Images to properly identify the deficiency. If all of your plants are growing in the same media but only some are showing symptoms, chances are the problem is a pathogen, not a deficient nutrient.

We’re sorry to bust yet another myth but, unless you’re growing hydroponically, undeserved importance is given to the pH of water that’s delivering your nutes. The soil’s ability to buffer your water’s pH is usually more than adequate. Moreover, cannabis grows well in a very wide pH range. In Afghanistan, where the world’s strongest weed originated, 95% of their soils’ pH is ≥ 8.0. Arid and semi-arid soil pH is typically more alkaline and tropical and sub-tropical, more acidic. Given that many awesome strains originate in all those environs, don’t be suckered into buying unnecessary pH adjustment products. Water pH is very important in hydroponic systems because the media has no buffering ability.

Yes. It’s important that Bud Bread (BB) and Coming of Age (CoA) are properly mixed, properly diluted, and kept agitated while feeding through drip irrigation. Angel’s Touch and T-Plantal Meditation are completely soluble and once properly dissolved, agitation is unnecessary. Make sure that BB and CoA are completely mixed in a smaller container before adding to agitation tank (see 1-minute mixing video). Pouring the mix though a tea strainer is advised to avoid any undissolved or clumped particles clogging emitters. After completely mixing with a small amount of water, use a minimum dilution rate of ½-gallon water/level tablespoon powder before feeding drip lines. For example, if your reservoir is 5 gallons, do not uses more than 10 level tablespoons of powder. If you need less than 10, fine. You do not need to reduce the amount of water.

Yes and no. Feeding through foliar pores (called stomates) was developed as an emergency crop management tool when (usually) one deficient nutrient was restricting overall crop production. Agronomists understand this to be a Band-Aid approach and do not prefer it to root feeding. Yes, plants are able to access a higher percentage of foliar nutrients compared with root nutrients but, because foliar feeding doesn’t last more than a few days and because it by-passes the biology in and around the roots (which acts as the plant’s digestive system), we don’t recommend foliar feeding. The biological health in the rhizosphere is extremely important and relative to the health of the plant.

Yes, especially Angel’s Touch. However, making good compost tea is both a skill and an art which requires practice and experience. Bad compost tea is easy to make and no amount of CWO products will improve it. If you haven’t started your batch of tea with mature, high quality compost…throw it out and start over. If, during the brewing process, you detect a rotten egg odor, throw it out and start over. Manure tea (totally taboo) is worse than nothing. To ensure the highest quality compost, have it tested. Add Angel’s Touch during the brewing process. Add Bud Bread or Coming of Age at the end of the brew cycle just before application. Mixing rate should be based on the final dilution (i.e., total volume of applied liquid).

Yes. What you see are the adults and they are not damaging your plants, but they lay eggs in the soil/media, and the larvae that hatch from those eggs feed on your plants’ roots. The easiest way to get rid of them (organically) is with beneficial nematodes which you can buy from North Country Organics. Over-watering creates a great habitat for fungus gnats. Let the pots dry out before drenching again.

Most often, the pathogen that grows on cannabis flowers is powdery mildew. Many strains of cannabis are native to arid or semi-arid environments, and when raised in more humid surroundings, they are more susceptible to pathogens. Another common problem is over feeding plants, which provides pathogens with a great place to raise a very large family. Powdery mildew and many other pathogens can be controlled organically with a product called Regalia. It’s more effective as a prophylactic than as an emergency control. You can purchase Regalia from North Country Organics.

Yes, cannabis and hemp have needs similar to most other plants. In a mixed garden, our products will fertilize a healthy and vibrant crop. However, they were designed with cannabis and hemp in mind and, if one is growing just tomatoes, just pumpkins or any other mono-crop, they may not be the most ideal choices. Bud Bread works great on both annual and perennial flowers.

No! They won’t make you any smarter either. 😉